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We showed my old person national park pass and headed into the Park. Being spoiled by northern AZ and southern UT, we were saying, "what's the big deal?" about Big Bend.
We stayed at the Chisos Mountain Lodge in one of the Emory Peak Lodge Rooms. In fact, the room shown looks just like ours.
On the day of arrival we had a late lunch at the restaurant, went back to the room, had major naps and then went back to the restaurant for dinner.
Rested the next morning we had breakfast and decided to get in the car and explore the (paved) roads of the park.
First we went east. We went to a campground right on the Rio Grande. There were lots of out-of-state campers basking in the sun by their RVs. We made our way through the cane to the river. And here it is. That's Mexico on the other side.
It's a sad situation for this little town. People used to be able to cross here and go easily back and forth to work on the US side and shop and eat on the Mexico side. Then the paranoia hit and the crossing was closed. It totally destroyed this little town's economy.
There is hope, though. The crossing is going to be reopened and managed electronically with limited hours for going back and forth. That should make it better for the people on both sides of the border here. If you click on the Park map, you can see that this would not be a prime location for any bad people to come across. All the roads on the Mexican side are dirt or so primitive that 4WD is required.
We left the east side of the Park and headed west. These are the Chisos Mountains where we were staying.
He had been complaining about not seeing any real canyons, but he had to admit that this is a canyon.
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Of course I had to show it off.
They said it was an easy hike up to view the canyon. Can you see the rail in this picture? That doesn't say easy to me.
I had to take one more picture of these cliffs.
We left the river and headed back toward the main road. On the way down we saw a lookout called Mule Ears. This is it from the back side.
We noticed all the colors of the rock faces of the mountains. Even a good camera doesn't do them justice.
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Then the road turned slightly north and we started seeing a totally different type of scenery.
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We turned west on 170, drove through what's left of Terlingua and got ready for miles and miles with no people or services and almost no cars.
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We didn't stop, but Lajitas is a nice little resort town west of Terlingua. It's mayor was a beer-drinking goat named Clay Henry.
On we drove over and around hills and mostly always along the Rio Grande. Mexico is on the left. We're in the US on our road.
Sometimes it's hard to tell if something is on Mexican or US soil. These ranch buildings are on the American side.
These small roads in Texas rarely have rest stops with bathrooms, but there often are picnic tables. I liked these ones.
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Trout loved the blind corners on this road -- especially if there was some off-camber elevation change as well.
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There was lots of evidence of past volcanic activity in the Big Bend area.
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Here's a close up. He really preferred the ones with no suggested speed, but I didn't get a picture of one of those.
We came out of the mountains, turned inland on US 67 at Presidio and it was another world. This is the part of Texas where the movie, Giant, was filmed. By the way, when I was growing up, Presidio consistently was cited as having the highest temperatures in the summer. Trout wanted to go through there because of the Larry McMurtry novels that mention it, and the Mexican town of Ojinaga across the river.
Then you get to Marfa. It's a town of many attractions as the linked Wikipedia article says. The Hotel Paisano, where many of the actors who were in Giant stayed, is now restored. Although dead now for over 15 years, Donald Judd still has a major presence there in the form of the foundation that preserves his work and spaces in the town. Marfa is way more arty than you might imagine for its size and location.
From Marfa we headed west on US 90 toward Van Horn. Van Horn has an old hotel like the one in Marfa, but for us its Dairy Queen was a quick stop before getting on IH 10 toward Las Cruces.
One big surprise for us was a large pecan orchard southeast of Van Horn on US 90. I'm not kidding when I say it went on for MILES and it was so deep that the ends of the rows of trees were barely visible.
I always feel like we're home when we get to Texas Canyon. These pictures provide a glimpse of the large, tumbled rocks there. It's just east of Benson on IH 10.
The next morning we left Big Bend after a quick breakfast in the room. We drove out of the park to the west. Because it was to be our longest day of driving, I had planned to take Texas Hwy 118 up to Alpine, but Trout talked to Ronald and he recommended that we take Farm to Market Road 170 along the Rio Grande, so that's what we did.
I am so glad we did that. It was a beautiful and fun drive and it didn't take that much longer than the other route. But next time, coming or going, we want to go through Alpine and the Davis Mountains where the McDonald Observatory is.
The Terlingua area is pretty touristy in a rough sort of way. My favorite shop along the road was called Passing Wind. It seemed to specialize in kites and other things that wind might activate.
One big surprise for us was a large pecan orchard southeast of Van Horn on US 90. I'm not kidding when I say it went on for MILES and it was so deep that the ends of the rows of trees were barely visible.
We stayed in our usual motel in Old Mesilla and had dinner once more at La Posta although we ordered something different this time. Uncharacteristically, we had some problems with our room which were not resolved even though we had arrived early. I mentioned those to the manager the morning we left and much to my surprise, he comped the room for us.
We headed back west toward home and didn't stop for anything until we got to Tucson. If you do that, you can make the trip in much less time than is indicated on the map.
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