Cluny Museum -- Paris, June 2012

The reason I became interested in art history was that for costume design in the drama department at UT, we were required to draw (copy) the clothing shown in art of various eras.  I found I loved the dress of the middle ages, and as I learned more, the architecture and other types of design as well.

The Cluny Museum is housed in two buildings that share the same location -- Roman baths from the 1st-3rd centuries and a medieval abbey from the late 15th century.  Its exhibits are fascinating to me.  I could spend a lot more time there than I did.

My primary goal was to see the Unicorn Tapestries, but the rest of the medieval art and design slowed me down, too.  Be sure to click on these pictures to see them bigger.  If some seem a little dark or blurry or odd in color, I never use a flash in a museum.  It's too damaging to the art. 

This is a lovely madonna and child.

If you click, you'll see that many of these pieces of jewelry and design are from before the year 1000, and most are from around the 5th-6th centuries.

These pieces are about 600 years younger from the 12th century.

Okay.  I admit it.  I could be a hoarder.  That's why it's good to go to museums sometimes to get my pottery fix.

I'm not obsessed with stained glass, but these pieces were nicely displayed.

And I'm not an armor fan, but these shields were beautiful.  That's what you can do if you don't have cable.

I don't think I could build a house with big enough walls to hold the tapestries I could own in a different time and place.  Maybe that's it.  Maybe I did live during this time.  If so, I was probably the woman scrubbing the floors, not the one having someone else bathe and dress me.

The primary reason I went was to see the unicorn tapestries.  As mentioned in the link above, they are in a very dark room.  You have to sit there awhile to allow your eyes to adjust.  My camera adjusted poorly, so here's the link again to see them better.  Just click on the picture of the unicorn under the Tapestries... label. 

I only ended up with the 2 decent shots below.  Do you see any surprises?  The unicorn looks more like a goat than a horse.  I read that there are all kinds of references and metaphors in these works.  Some religious.  Some not so much.

Oops!  A painting sneaked in here.

 As much as I loved the breathtaking beauty of the Unicorn Tapestries, I actually preferred these that show daily life of the times.  Many show ordinary folks doing ordinary work.  More common images are of  religious scenes and rich people.

The Cluny Museum is small and intimate.  The building and the art work took me to a place and time that I love.  I cannot praise it enough.  Even the groups of school kids didn't distract me from what I saw there.  

Mistakes & Lessons Learned from Them -- France, 2012

Versailles

I've never been particularly interested in going to Versailles, but Ramona raved so much about it that I decided we should go.  The ticket prices are so high, that in fact, that was the main reason I got Paris Museum Passes for us.

We went on a supposeedly "slow" day.  We arrived at a supposedly "slow" time, even after taking the wrong train and having to switch to a different one.  Nowhere in any discussion about transportation to the palace did I see anything that mentioned that the trains were named and that only one went straight to the town without changing.  Oh, and the names are like human names, not anything descriptive.

I am not fond of the style of architecture or excess that Versailles represents.  The only thing I  wanted to see in the palace was the Hall of Mirrors.  I did want to take an English language tour.  While Trout waited outside, I checked into that.  All I had read about it said that you got to see some different rooms and that the tour groups were small.  Nothing said that ALL the rooms were different, so no Hall of Mirrors on the English language tour. 

The normal crowd shuffle through the palace takes about 90 minutes.  The English tour takes about 90 minutes.  Neither of us was willing to spend 3 hours in the palace, whether we were in a small group or a crowd.

So we decided (mostly me) that we would see the gardens which Ramona really liked and Marie Antoinette's palaces.  Just as with so many of the monuments, we had to go through a long line for security to get through to the gardens.  On that slow day at that slow time, we only stood in line for about 45 minutes.  Here's a word of warning.  The entire front entrance area is paved in very slick and rounded cobblestones.  If you go, do not wear any kind of shoe that will not work on those, wet or dry weather.

Did I mention it was raining?  Rather than try to find the little train that you can ride to and from the palace to Marie Antoinette's places, we decided to walk through the gardens.  We later learned that it leaves and returns to an area on the total opposite side of the palace where they made you come in and it was completely unseeable unless you went around to that side of the palace.  We got soaked even in rain gear and with an umbrella.  I had read that there were several places to eat along the way.  Well, they were mostly open air so not the greatest situation in the rain. 

There was a nice restaurant along the way.  We decided to hold out for it.  Nothing I read said you had to have RESERVATIONS for it, so we couldn't get in.  And it operated on French lunch time, so it closed at 2-ish.  Nothing I read said that the nicer places to eat weren't open the whole time the palace and grounds are open.

Are you starting to get the picture?  Hungry. Wet. Tired.  We finally found a place to eat that we thought would be inside right next to the Petite Trianon.  Well the serving counter was inside but where you ate was outside.  By that time we decided that we were too tired and hungry to care if we were freezing and wet or if the food was the same.  We got our food and went out under the umbrellas to eat. 

This is where that happened.  As you can see, the umbrellas didn't cover all the chairs and tables.  Can you tell how hard it is raining?



The umbrellas leaked and didn't even come together in the middle.

We did go inside the Petite Trianon and I was very disappointed.  It was not very impressive.  The masses of school groups between the ages of 6 and 16 didn't help.  We could have walked on over to the Grand Trianon, but I had had it.  My feet were killing me by this time, even with somewhat sensible Danskos.  We waited for the little train and took it back to the palace. 

All I can say about the gardens is that they are big.  I can certainly see how someone could get lost in them, have trysts, hunt or whatever.  And with a 40+ minute walk between the palace and the Trianons, I can see why they rode in carriages or on horseback to go back and forth.

With the rain and it being the first week of June and still cold, the gardens were a mess.  Nothing was in bloom.  By the time we got back to the palace, we had been there almost 5 hours and seen almost nothing.  It was a joy to see this dog in a workman's van as we were leaving. That was the best part of the visit.

The pictures with the dog show a bit of blue sky.  By the time we were leaving, it was starting to clear up. 





If I ever try to visit Versailles again, I will plan for us to spend the night before and after in the town of Versailles.  We will go very early or very late.  We will pay the money for one of the golf carts or go on the little train and not bother trying to walk.  We will bring our lunch if possible or make reservations at that restaurant near the Trianons.  And we will not go in early June.  Fall when the kids are back in school sounds better to me.

Le Mans

This was supposed to be a highlight of the trip.  It was another big disappointment.  Trout wanted to see the start (3 pm Satruday), the end (3 pm Sunday) and be there when it started to get dark at about 9+ pm on Saturday night.

We had lodgings in Belleme, about an hour away for Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights.  My plan was that we would arrive to check in before 2 pm (the office closed between 2 and 6), find out where or how to do our laundry, get settled, take care of the laundry and have a nice dinner in the restaurant of the hotel.

The first problem was that I tried to follow the map instead of my instincts for getting there off the autoroute.  That cost us so much time that we didn't arrive until after 2.  I had an address for a laundry, but nothing was there at that address.  We drove to another town just a few kilometers north, found a laundry, found something to eat at a bakery (all restaurants were closed by the time we got there), ate in the car, drove around a bit for fun and planned to come back Saturday morning early to do our laundry.

We checked into our hotel at the appointed time and asked about the laundry I couldn't find.  It turned out it was a non-self-service one and just looked like a dry cleaners from the outside.  It opened at 9 on Saturday morning, so we planned to take our laundry there to have them do it.  We had a great dinner and a relaxing night.

We got up early the next morning, took our laundry to the place, left it and they said it would be ready by noon.  Perfect!  We had plenty of time to eat breakfast, get dressed, pick up the laundry and drive to Le Mans to get to the track in time to pick up our tickets before the race started.

We had walked to the laundry before, but this time we drove so that we could just put the folded clothes into the trunk of the car and deal with them later.  We get there and she had forgotten them in the dryer.  So they weren't out and folded already, and they were even wetter than what we call European dry.  We had to wait while she folded them, sort of, put them in our laundry bag and we paid.

Okay, so far so good.  We're on the road to Le Mans.  We're going to park downtown and take the tram to the track.  We still had plenty of time to do that. 

The people who were selling the special Le Mans tram tickets said that the last stop was where we should get off.  We wondered why everyone got off at the next-to-last stop.  We found out.  You had to walk almost 2 kilometers from there to the entrance of the track.  So we got back on the tram, rode to the other stop, got off and started walking. 

The time is now getting close to the start and we still don't have our tickets.  After asking several people and going to the entrance to get them, we learn that we have to go to a special building even farther away to pick them up.   So we walk back around under the autoroute to that building to get them and they ask, do you have your entrance tickets?

Huh?!  There was nothing on their website about separate entrance tickets being required when you paid the money for a seat in the stands.  Arrrrrrrgh!  So we bought the entrance tickets and walked back around under the autoroute to the entrance.

By this time, with all the walking, it is long past the start.  Need I say we are hungry, thirsty, tired, etc.?  We had walked at least 4-5 kilometers total and spent over 2 hours doing that and getting the tickets.

We go in the entrance and head for our seats.  We are confronted with a wall, and I do mean a wall, of people facing us.  There is an ambulance trying to get through them.  We continue walking in the mud -- no paving, just rocks and gravel -- to our stands.  But we can't get to them because there are so many people on the hill next to them standing, sitting or whatever. 

Yes it is a good place to see the race from.  So we walk around the back of our grandstand to a friendlier access point, work our way through all the people to the entrance to the stands, show our tickets and try to make our way to our seats.  It was so muddy that at some point they had brought in rocks to sort of pave the way.  Big, pointy rocks that had not been rolled into the mud to flatten out the walking area.  Although I didn't injure myself, I did turn my ankle twice trying to walk on them. 

I had worn my Danskos, which should have been fine on paved areas on even flat muddy ones, but they weren't the greatest on size 5 no minus pointy rocks.  I was so pissed off by this time that I even shrugged off Trout's attempt to help me.

Now for some pictures.  These are on the tram to the track.  There was standing room only from downtown Le Mans.  Coming back was no better.  Apparently, you have to be a lot older than we are for any French person under the age of 30 to give you their seat. 

Our seats were great, but can you see the other few people in the stands?  It was freezing and everyone was bundled up.

After about 30 minutes we were done.  Right behind us was a carnival area with a huge bandstand.  The rock group that was going to perform was rehearsing.  I kid you not, they were so loud that we could not hear the race cars!  And they never stopped the whole time we were there.

Our first stop after leaving the grandstands was a pit stop.  The men's bathroom had a very long line.  See the people on the hill behind?  That was the front way to our grandstands.  That ambulance I mentioned earlier was going to assist someone who had fallen off that hill.  In the short time we were there, someone else fell off the hill requiring another ambulance.

We later learned from some Brits at our hotel on Sunday night that they never buy tickets to the grandstand seats.  They just get the entrance tickets and wander around to see the race from different locations only they wander in their cool cars.  You can pay for special parking pass that will allow you to do that.

I did love the line at the women's bathrooms, although only one stall had any toilet paper even as early as it was after the start of the race.  I knew it could only get worse as the day/night progressed.

I had hoped that there would be decent French fast food available, but it was as mediocre as any track or carnival food anywhere.  We ate it anyway, sitting at tables in mud puddles.  I was willing to stay until dark, but Trout was ready to go mostly because he knew that the band would never shut up and he would never enjoy the race because of them.

So we walked out a back entrance, Trout bought the souvenir programs he got and we headed through a parking lot to the tram.  We weren't the only ones taking a break by the way.  I had to get a picture of these guys with their specially rigged ladders.  Be sure to click on it to see their unique seats. 

In the heat of the moment I swore I would never go back to Le Mans, but that's not really true.  I would not go back for the 24 Hours because it appeared to be more of a big drunken party than something for people who really care about racing.  Perhaps being somewhere away from the carnival and bandstand would help.  I might go for the historics held in July sometime.

Having said that, I would have gone back on Sunday with Trout.  We had our tickets -- all of them.  We knew how things worked and it would be much quieter that day.  But he hated it as much as I did, mostly because of the crowds. 

So we had as late a breakfast as we could at the hotel and just stayed in the room attached to our electronic devices until dinner.  See the posting about Belleme for more details on our stay there.

Buffalo Grill

As we were driving around France, especially along the autoroutes, we kept seeing the signs for the Buffalo Grill.  It looked like a fast food joint, but maybe a little better.  Trout said he wanted to eat there every time we saw one.  It was a fast food joint and it wasn't any better.

When the kart track wasn't open yet, we decided to go to the next closest town for lunch.  Small town, France, we were running out of time because they close around 2.  However, there are some all day service places and the Buffalo Grill is one.  And we saw one we could get to, so we pulled in.

From these pictures you can see that there weren't many people there at about 1:30 in the afternoon.

You can also see that they have some mixed mascot metaphors here.  Buffalo?  Longhorn?  Northwest Indians?

We got burgers and fries and they were awful.  We know you can get good burgers and fries in France because we had some in Paris that were superb.

You know you're in trouble when the back of the placemat has games for kids.  That's a sure fire indication of bad food no matter where you are in the world.

The chain was having some kind of contest where you picked your favorite meal and the winner would get a trip to the good old USA.  These were supposed to be representations of typical American meals.  Look closely.  Click on the picture to see it better.  Nothing says US west or southwest  like Tartare Classic!

So our advice to you is that even if you are sorely tempted to go to a Buffalo Grill while driving around France, don't give in.  Many bistros have hamburgers that are much better than even Zinburger here in Tucson. 

And there are better choices at other roadside gas stations with restaurants.  We did stop at one along the autoroute.  Trout's meal was poor because he picked the wrong thing.  I got something from their version of a fixed price meal and it was great.  The ham was some of the best I have ever eaten.

Vehicles (Mostly Cars) in France 2012

I have enough data points now to say that it always happens.  Trout always sees cool cars when we travel in Europe.  Maybe we are guided to them automagically. 

This trip, it started early.  We encountered this one on the way from St. Sulpice to lunch on our 1st real day in Paris.  It's a Simca and we weren't the only ones interested in it.

It has a vintage license plate.

Trout also spied this Alfa parked on the street we always walked down to go to the closest Metro stop, the grocery store, some restaurants, etc.  I think it was parked there most of our week in Paris.

If you look closely or click on the picture to make it bigger, you can see a vintage plate on this car, too.

Now we're in Reims and he asked me to take a picture of this righ-hand-drive from the UK.

I think we saw it on the way to dinner our 2nd night in Reims.  When we got to the bistro, this one was parked there.

I'm not sure what kind of plates these are.  As you can see the area had lots of construction work going on.  They are remodeling the big market in the background.  It didn't seem to matter.  The place was so good, it was packed.

Why did he want me to shoot this?  Race rig, naturally.

This one is for our friend, Mike Redmond.  He has a Yaris.  This is a typical new European license plate on the continent.  Only the little letter on the left indicates that this is a French plate.

But why this one?  Maybe clicking on it will reveal that.

There are lots of small cars in Europe of course.  I liked this Ford Ka.  Are we in Boston?

These guys were parked in the lot we walked through when leaving the Le Mans race track.  Trout knew what they were right away.  More vintage plates.  Do you recognize them?

Then he wanted a picture of  these huge tires.

What were we driving all this time?  That's Trout on the left standing in front of it being distracted by the car next door.

It's a Renault Laguna, stick shift, 6 forward gears, diesel.  It's a pretty big sedan and not what we paid for.  I paid for a smaller car like a VW Golf, but when we picked it up in Reims, they had no small cars, so they were required to give us this one.  It was pretty fancy for us.

It was also new and highly electronic.  You put the key clicker in a slot.  It checked everything before it let you push the button to start it.  It told you if everything was okay on a screen.  In French.

These are more cars and some motorcycles in front of the place we stayed in Belleme near Le Mans.  All these people had been to the race.

Yeah, they do log in France.  I had more opportunities to take pictures of logging trucks in France than I did last year in the Pacific North West.

Gas stop along the autoroute, complete with fast red car.  More odd plates.  Brits?

This is a series of photos of another Trout diversion.  We noticed signs for kart tracks on many of the roads we drove in France, but we were never there at a convenient time to stop.  Trout did say that if we ever were, he wanted to stop and drive.

His opportunity came on Friday, June 22nd on a back road on the way to the Cote d'Azur.  We saw a sign for this place and the open-gated entrance to our left with some railroad tracks between the road we were driving on and it.

We figured out how to get to that side road and were happy to see that the place was actually open for business.  We were a bit early (more about that later) but Trout paid for 2 sessions on the track.

The guys there spoke no English, so they had this woman who translated for Trout.  I'm sure they get lots of English speakers there.

He had a great time driving around the track.  There was much more track than we could see from the paddock area.  He also said that the kart was much more powerful than any he'd ever driven in the US.

This is on the back side of the office.

While Trout was going around, this guy in the driving suit showed up with his own kart.  After Trout was done, we watched him go much faster around the track.  When I passed him once, I said hello in English and he responded with "how's it going?"  So I thought he spoke English. 

When he came in Trout decided to go talk to him.  It turned out that he didn't speak that much English, but Mr. Walk and Talk did get to see the kart and the cool trailer he used to transport it.

There will be many more vehicles in my driving pictures, but these were the ones Trout particularly noticed when I had a camera in hand to take pictures.